We worked our way up Ireland’s eastern coastline from Dublin toward Belfast with one of the world’s big boys, Royal County Down, on the agenda.  After a tough driving day; wet, slick, and breezy, we’d made Newcastle, about 30 miles south of Belfast, and taken rooms at the Slieve Donard, a massive old dowager overlooking Dundrum Bay.  Close to the golf course, too.  A two-minute stroll along a path framed by tall privet hedges to the... Full Story